This Some (N)iceland

Iceland 🤍 All your travel questions answered:

Where I stayed:

The Edition in Reykjavik

Things I did:

Horseback Riding at Laxnes Horse Farm. Don't call it a pony (even though it is indeed a miniature horse). The Icelandic horse is known for having five different gaits (and if you're not a horse person, that's 2 extra so it feels like you're gliding once you get going). They also have an outstanding ability to cross rough terrain, which we did on this 3 hour ride. I definitely wouldnt pass this activity up - it was the first thing i did and probably one of my most favorite things of the trip.

The people who ran this place were lovely and super cheerful; they did have helmets, riding boots and a onesie for the cold, which i declined since i had a fleece & leather jacket, proper boots and leather gloves (you need a good pair the whole trip). It was so special seeing the Icelandic countryside by horseback and the views were insanely beautiful.

Golden Circle Drive

The whole Golden Circle route can easily be done in one day, as the classic journey covers around 230 kilometres (140 miles to you and me). You can actually drive the route in just over 3 hours. The Golden Circle is great for a shorter day trip, hitting up famous spots like Þingvellir National Park, Geysir, and Gullfoss.

Lunch at Fridheimar Greenhouse Farm.

another unexpected delight. Friðheimar Winebar & Bistro is a family-run restaurant located in one of the oldest greenhouses on the Friðheimar estate. Fridheimar is on the Golden Circle route, 50 minutes away from Thingvellir National Park, half an hour from Gullfoss and 20 minutes from Geysir.

The farm has abundant supplies of geothermal water, which provides heat to the greenhouses that grow tomatoes (yes, in Iceland) so the restaurant offers an entire menu of tomato-based dishes from onsite greenhouses. You can easily get up and walk around and see how the greenhouse works while you wait for your tomato soup (10/10...and the rye bread omg..which they bake by digging a hole/pot in the geothermal ground and i swear all bread should be baked this way lol just need some geysers) and dont forget to visit the bees :)

Strokkur Geysir

The Great Geysir is not the only famous geyser in the Geysir hot spring area. The most active geyser in the area is Strokkur (the Churn). It sprouts hot water as high as 30 meters (100 ft) into the air every few minutes.

Seljalandfoss and Kvernufoss waterfalls

A better wakeup than any cup of coffee I've ever had is the Behind-the-Falls Experience: One of the highlights of the hike is the opportunity to walk behind the cascading waterfall. BRING A RAINCOAT AND RAIN PANTS. You will get absolutely drenched and it is absolutely worth it.

Reynisfjara Black Sand Beach

The Land of Fire and Ice is home to around 130 volcanos (32 of which are currently active) and stunning black beaches have risen from the ashes. Vik Beach—or Reynisfjara, as it's known to locals—is not just the island's most famous black sand beach, but arguably the world's. It has these massive basalt columns, lava formations, towering cliffs, and caves. I snapped this near the shore by a giant basalt formations the locals called Reynisdrangar.

Real talk: Iceland is the windiest place i have ever been, and I absolutely did not want to get out of the car to see Iceland’s iconic black sand beach (Reynisfjara) let alone take a photo, because it was freezing cold, the winds were 60 mph and the waves were lookin treacherous… but this was one of the locations I told my guide in advance I desperately wanted to see. We walked down to the rocks to asses the situation, game planned where we could grab the shot (memories >>>) then went back up and waited in the car (with hot coffee) for over an hour until most of the tourists left and the winds dropped, both ran like crazy in hiking boots, I kicked mine off, my guide snapped this shot and we ran back to the car.

To my guide, Lelo, with no social media, wherever you are, so grateful for the silly little adventure behind this photo. 🤍

Solheimajokul Glacier.

This is a short hike from a parking lot and you get to WALK ON A GLACIER. The landscape it mindblowing, and I had no idea it would be this massive, even though my guide noted its melting pretty quickly. One of the coolest experiences I've ever done in my years of travel.

Dinner at Dill in Reykjavik.

One of the best meals I've ever had. Michelin-starred and spectacular. The presentation was stunning and each dish was better than the last. The menu was 13,900 ISK ($105) and the drink pairing was 11,900 ISK (~$90) at the time of my visit. I'm also sober and they had a kombucha pairing menu that was sublime. They thought of absolutely everything.

• The restaurant is located inside of a building on the 2nd floor so you have a nice view of the hustle and bustle of the street and snowfall if you sit near a window.

Drinks at Tipsy in Reykjavik.

Cute, cozy little bar recommended by a local - great mocktails.

Late night hotdog stand in Reykjavik.

dont question this one.

Hot springs - Blue Lagoon was closed due to the volcano possibly erupting so I did Sky Lagoon. This was sort of a weird thing to do as a solo traveler, and honestly, it was PACKED. The spa is beautiful and you have a personal shower and locker for before you go into the lagoon. They have the chicest Icelandic souveniers in the gift shop and the lunch was 10/10.

Things I wish I knew before leaving: Every city/area in Iceland is far apart, we drove at least 5 hours a day, sometimes more. But honestly, some of my favorite parts were the long drives and the scenery/landscape. You definitely need to rent a car or book a driver/tour guide through your hotel. Be prepared to get wet and dirty. Iceland has microclimates and the weather can go from bright and sunny to extreme winds (70 mph) which makes visiting the waterfalls feel like an intense nature shower lol good hiking boots and wind jacket and pants are a MUST.

a week is definitely not enough time to explore all of Iceland. Missed the Northern Lights but the locals say it’s hit or miss. Tried to track it on an app but the weather got insanely windy and a storm came in so the clouds were a bit too low.

The people are extraordinary, live in a dream land and were super helpful to a solo female traveler. I also met two solo traveler babes while horseback riding and thought that was pretty rad (and a first time for me).

I’m sure I’m missing things but I saved everything to my highlight reel on my Instagram as well with location tags for those who ever need an itinerary reference! 🇮🇸✨

KENYA BELIEVE IM IN AFRICA

My first experience of Kenya’s vast wilderness, teeming with the world’s wildlife A-listers and framed by the majestic Kilimanjaro, was in a word, unforgettable.

Where I stayed in Nairobi:

Giraffe Manor

This hotel was the bucket list stay of a lifetime, and easily the coolest place I've stayed on a vacation in all my years of travel. Built in the 1930s and set in 12 acres of indigenous forest 12 miles (20 kilometres) from Nairobi city center, Giraffe Manor offers an unparalleled experience with its resident herd of Rothschild Giraffes. It's also home to warthogs, bushbuck and more than 180 bird species. Giraffe Manor is made up of 12 rooms, and the guides bring the giraffes to your doorstep (or window if you're upstairs) every morning so you can have your coffee and feed the giraffes before walking to the main dining room, where you'll get photos like this:

Giraffe Manor will forever hold a special place in my heart, and I'm so grateful I had the rare opportunity to interact with these graceful, gentle giants. The picturesque landscape and the most whimsical, magestic creatures welcoming you to their home was nothing short of absolutely magical and unforgettable. Legit felt like I was in Jumangi *without all the scary parts and poachers lol

Since Giraffe Manor was a bucket list destination for me... and also very expensive...and also books out years in advance... we only stayed one night before getting private road transfer from Giraffe Manor to Wilson Airport (The Safari Collection owns both Giraffe Manor and Sala's Camp in Masai Mara so they arranged all the travel inbetween).

Then we jumped on a scheduled flight from Wilson Airport to Keekorok Airstrip, Mara. The planes are very small and can seat 6 pax.

Starting off the trip like that felt difficult to top, but then again, I had never been on safari...

Where I stayed on Safari:

Sala’s Camp in the Masai Mara

Its unique location is Sala’s drawcard! I did some research on a few other camps, and Sala's remoteness seemed to offer the most exclusive and abundant game viewing opportunities, not to mention being the first camp to welcome the annual wildebeest migration. This luxury eco-camp hidden in the northern tip of Namunyak Conservancy boasted 850,000 acres (I asked) of dramatic landscape in the heart of Samburuland. Four beautifully appointed (exactly what you'd think 'luxe eco-camp' to be) and spacious tents are nestled in the saddle of a rocky outcrop under the shade of an acacia grove (sounds whimsical, because it is).

In the southern Maasai Mara, Sala’s Camp rests beside the Sand River within an area of indigenous forest looking towards Tanzania. I've heard the wildlife in the Mara is exceptional all year round, but Sala’s is also lucky enough to have the longest migration season of all the Mara properties as it sits in the corridor. I went during COVID (November 2020) so there were only 6 of us staying in a 50-person resort, so the animals were out in droves with no other foot traffic, road traffic or safari groups for miles. Stylish and elegant, this was an extremely special under-canvas safari experience with every tent offering plunge pools, comfortable beds, deep bathtubs and lots of space. I could literally hear the wildlife RIGHT outside of our luxury yurt, and the African decor to the bedding, everything was immaculate. But, what you're really there for is the wildlife on the safari so here's a few of my snaps (photos of the best sunset of my life excluded but seared into my mind):

I was fortunate enough to see the 'Big 5' over the course of 2 days (lion, leopard, rhino, elephant and African buffalo); most of them were video since i didnt want to miss a moment, saved to my Instagram highlight reel labeled 'Kenya'.

You don't even really even need a zoom lens, i shot this with a 35mm from approx 10 yards away. That's how close you get - absolutely breathtaking. I wondered before i went if it would feel like a zoo without bars or cages, but nothing can prepare you for how awe-inspiring it feels being this close to literal beasts, so relaxed and welcoming you as a visitor on their land.

The animals are super comfortable with the guides and vehicles (below). Obviously you arent allowed to jump out, but this was surreal seeing these gorgeous beasts this close.

Our guides were able to spot animals miiiiiles away because their eyes are so trained and their instincts are so atuned to the land. I could see if i used the binoculars and then once we spotted, we were off in the land cruiser to get as close as we could.

Leopard mamma just chillin (which they said was especially odd that she was out during the day like this).

The guides told us this glorious king had just eaten (we drove by a pack of wild hyenas tearing up the carcas of a dead elephant) so we weere able to get super close to this dude chilling in the shade of the brush, which they said was also a rare occurance. Thank you, Universe (and Circle of Life.. queue the Lion King soundtrack).

Things I did:

Safari in Masai Mara.

Obviously safari was the reason for the trip, but hundreds of thousands of visitors pour into Kenya's borders every year, drawn to the savannahs and enigmatic tribal cultures. But sticking solely to the increasingly commercialized tourist landscape sells a visit short. It barely needs mentioning, but a safari should be placed at the top of any Kenya itinerary. Nowhere else on earth is the wonder of the natural world played out in such spectacular fashion.

Hot Air Balloon ride Excursion.

This was a last minute add on to the trip and 1000% worth the 4am early wakeup call. The balloon went up at 6am, and not only were you seeing the savannahs from a hot air balloon, but you could spot the wildlife migrating and grazing from an eagle eye view. The sunrise was breathtaking and truly a moment I won't forget.

Notes about Kenya:

🗣️ Tongues twisted: Kenya’s population boasts a cultural diversity we can’t comprehend in the US. Owing to the many different tribal histories, there are more than 43 languages and dialects spoken in the country.

🎽 Run for hills: Kenya’s track record in marathon racing is legendary. Most of the country’s success stems from a single tribe–the Kalenjin. The mixture of high altitude, natural diet, and mixed terrain mixes with the people’s passion for running to create athletic excellence.

🚼 Our ancestral home: It’s widely assumed that humanity began in East Africa. Kenya may even be the epicenter; the oldest hominid remains on record were discovered there.

🦏 Conservation colossus: Naturally, the biggest draw to Kenya is its stunning wildlife. It takes this seriously: hunting is banned, and it boasts more than 50 nature reserves to protect the animals.

My (Mostly) Solo Portugal Trip

Let's not start with the fact that the airline lost my luggage for 36 hours, a carry-on size which I had just purchased the WEEK BEFORE so that my luggage would be with me for the entirety of the trip, but of course United ran out of overhead bin storage and forced me to check my carry on proceeding to 'misplace' it somewhere in between Boston and Portugal... so did I have a change of clothes for the luggage that was supposed to be with me for the entirety of my travels? Of course not. Did I land, cry at the airport in Porto and then remember I was in the Port Wine Capital of the World and proceed to drink and forget entirely what I was wearing? Yes.

See below. Drug store makeup, a borrowed dress, and yes I drank all of that port in one sitting. (But we'll get back to this, the first 6 hours when I'm in airport clothes for 48 hours is where we're at - just providing a visual break).

Post-flight debacle, just as I'm debating whether to drink my weight in Port or take a nap, as the universe would have it, the most magical Portuguese man rode up to the Le Monumental Palace (where the staff offered to shop for my lost essentials FOR ME, obri-freakin-gado) on a Vintage Ural Ranger Side Car Tour (because he is the owner and tour guide extraordinaire of Porto Side Car Tours). AKA an earth angel named John. *His name is actually something Portuguese, which as I proceeded to get drunk... I mean do the tour, I couldn't pronounce so he said John was fine.

After wiping my makeup free face of my lost luggage tears and explaining my unfortunate first 4 hours in Portugal, John de-toured our tour and took me directly to a local hang...and after exactly one bottle of Portuguese rose (to myself, he's driving, he reminded me) and 3 pastel de natas (Portugal's most ubiquitous pastry and sold anywhere you can buy an espresso)... I am one United lost luggage 'down' but up on my Portuguese luck.

Back to the Nata. The flaky crust is filled with a creamy egg custard that is brûléed and dusted with cinnamon. It’s the kind of pastry you’ll spend your days dreaming about, long after you’ve left Portugal. This famous pastry was invented by monks at Jerónimos Monastery with too many leftover egg yolks. They were first sold down the street from the monastery at Pastéis de Belém, which opened in 1837. For almost two centuries, this pastry shop has been churning out thousands of tarts a day—all according to the original recipe which is kept under lock and key. Please see rose and leftover nata crumbs below.

EDITOR'S INTERJECTION: TO BE HONEST, I'M SURPRISED AT HOW MANY PEOPLE ARE

SURPRISED I'M TRAVELING SOLO. I MOVED TO ARGENTINA WHEN I WAS 20, BY MYSELF. I HAVE TO BE "ON" ALL THE TIME, EVERY DAMN DAY FOR MY JOB. THIS IS THERAPY FOR ME. NO IM NOT SCARED. NO, IM NOT BOTHERED. YES, I'M TOTALLY FINE. LIKE BEYOND PLEASANT. AND NO, I'M NOT IN "STEALTH" MODE HIDING A MAN. SOMEONE ASKED THAT. SOME OF Y'ALL SHOULD PRACTICE MORE SOLITUDE TBH, BUUUUT I DIGRESS.

BACK TO PORTO AND MY SIDECAR TOUR.

Let me start, or continue... by saying not getting a tour guide anywhere in Europe would be a mistake. I would have missed so much of this history (okay all of it) and it's so rich compared to what we're used to as Americans. In case you forgot, I'm a bottle of rose and 3 natas-deep and this tour hasn't even started because HUMANITY (John swooped me over for rose at that local hang to allow me to forget about the lost luggage). SO. Porto is located along the Douro River estuary in northern Portugal and is one of the oldest European centres. Its core was proclaimed a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1996, as "Historic Centre of Porto, Luiz I Bridge and Monastery of Serra do Pilar".

There are medieval entry points marked by these amazing old bridges which once imported goods in the 1400s. THE. FOURTEEN. HUNDREDS. HUH?!

Locals hang out on the patio and eat sardines, which are the most popular catch. Bacalhau, the Portuguese term for salted codfish, is the most iconic ingredient in all of Portugal’s cuisine with thousands of ways to prepare it, but don’t go around asking where you can try it fresh. The cod is not actually from Portugal, but instead caught in northern European waters and then preserved in salt. Rivaling bacalhau, sardines may be the most beloved fish in all of Portugal. They’re sold all over the city in decorative collectible tins.

NO DIRTY LAUNDRY HERE. Because its clean. Our tour guide says "if you are a nosy person and want to know the life of your neighbor, no need to listen at the door, just look at the laundry drying"

John also took me to see ESTAÇÃO FERROVIÁRIA DE PORTO. This train station has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site and as a National Monument of Portugal. Until the late nineteenth century there was the convent of the Benedictine nuns of Ave Maria, precisely where São Bento train station is now.

PLEASE GO SEE JOHN if you're in Porto, and tell him Megan, the blonde with lost luggage who loves rose and nata sent you.

PRO-TIP: Don't try to speak Spanish

Because Portugal is right next to Spain, many travelers assume that using broken Spanish will be helpful when communicating with locals. In reality, most locals have a much better grasp of English than Spanish, especially the under-30 crowd. You should absolutely try learning a few words of Portuguese if you want to ease the communication barrier — but when in doubt, stick to English!

NOW ON TO THE PORT. Follow me on a premium lectured wine tasting at Cockburns Port in the historic area of Vila Nova de Gaia. Located on the Douro River, it's the largest wooden Port cellar in the Port Wine neighborhood, with the largest collection of oak barrels and

wooden vats of any Port cellar in Porto.

This is where they age all the ports and in particular, this is the home of Cockburn's Special Reserve Port. Founded in the earliest 19th century, the Cockburn's & Co Family built a remarkable reputation (this publicist loves a good personal brand), Records at the London Auction houses show that in the early twentieth century, Cockburn's Vintage Ports commanded the highest prices of any port houses.

SPECIAL RESERVE. Rich and vibrant with fine peppery tannins, Cockburn's Special Reserve continues to be the world's most successful Reserve Port, ever since its launch in 1969. Cockburn's has more Port Wine ageing in seasoned oak vats and casks than any other producer in the historic quarter of Vila Nova de Gaia. Additional wood-maturing gives Cockburn's Special Reserve its distinctive elegance and balance, the characteristic of all great

Port Wine.

CHEF'S KISS: Yakuza by Olivier Porto - EASILY one of the best sushi meals I've ever had. Let the chef do the Omakase. You will not be disappointed. The couples nearby asked this solo diner what I ordered from the menu - hint: omakase is where you let the chef pick :)

NEXT STOP. THE ALGARVE COAST. We stayed at the magical Vilalara Thalassa Resort, a 5-star LUSH, upscale resort, set on the cliffs of Praia das Gaivotas along the North Atlantic Ocean. Follow a path to the beach and you'll be met with umbrellas, sun chairs and this view - with waitstaff to bring your cocktails.

While in Algarve, and because I was traveling solo (spoiler alert: my girlfriend Erika flew in from Vegas and surprised me in Algarve) I booked a photographer couple I found on Instagram (mattandlenaphotography). So while Erika was catnapping her jet lag away, they snapped these (more on my Instagram). Highly recommend booking them to capture you while you're visiting this stunning place. Golden hour never looked better.

We then jaunted off by car for our last leg in Lisbon, but not before stopping at Comporta Cafe Beach Club. We had only scheduled 6 hours, but could have easily spent days in Comporta, which turned out being the highlight of the trip, in my opinion. Apparently we missed Elon Musk by a day - this place shits all over Tulum but was also what Tulum was like pre-tourism boom.

FINAL STOP. LISBON. After arriving in Lisbon, the seaside city that’s the second-oldest capital in Europe, we checked into the Portobay Liberdade Hotel. Lisbon (Lisboa in Portuguese) is home to world-class restaurants, fantastic nightlife, and colorful historic buildings.

One of Europe’s oldest and most colorful cities, Lisbon’s layout is as winding and varied as its storied past—which dates all the way back to 1200 BCE. Rocked by one of the most destructive earthquakes the world has ever seen, today Portugal’s capital shines with beauty in every tiled building and romantic palace. It’s a city of sprawling vistas, steep hills, and climbing cable cars, where the night air is filled with the beautiful music of heartbreak and the salt of the Tagus River and Atlantic Ocean.

Sample the best of Lisbon at the Time Out Market, a food hall featuring some of the most popular restaurants and bars in the city (and where you can meet other travelers if you’re going solo). There you’ll find locally sourced seafood, addictive cheese-filled Pasteis de Nata pastries, burgers, sushi, pad thai, and traditional Portuguese plates. We took a cooking class from Chef Miguel Mesquita (a must-do), a contestant in “MasterChef Portugal”, then won the TV show "War of Plates". We picked out all of our own locally sourced ingredients from the market and fishery on-site and cooked his curated menu ourselves!

Wander ancient castles in Sintra. Just a 30-minute drive from Lisbon in the foothills of the Sintra Mountains, the town of Sintra is like an ornate medieval village swallowed by a fairytale forest. Across some wooded hills in the Quinta da Regaleira castle, giant towers peak over the tops of trees and are sunk into the ground, connected to each other through a labyrinth of caves. There’s even an Initiation Well of moss-covered stone that spirals down seven levels into the earth where pagan monks once held ceremonies. Bridges and paths take you over ponds and past waterfalls or fountains spread across forested grounds.

Sintra's Pena National Palace is basically what every Disney princess really wanted but either couldn't afford or couldn't relocate to due to some weird spell. It was the brainchild of King Ferdinand II, who had it built expressly to be visible from any vantage point in the entire surrounding hills. Not far from the palace grounds, there’s a medieval castle that was built during the Moorish Era (8th through 12th century) that once served as a lookout point for Lisbon.

Half the fun of travel is getting lost in the twists and turns of winding streets and random cafes, but I do hope these highlights help with your Portugal experience! Saúde!